A couple of weeks ago, I was at Castle Rock State Park in Santa Cruz. There are a number of great hiking and running trails throughout the park; and in addition to great hiking, it is also a great spot for rock climbing: both bouldering and sport climbing. On this particular day there were a number of rock climbers out on the rocks. It's amazing to see someone pulling themselves up with only a few fingers. What looks to be physically impossible is in fact possible with the right amount of leverage.
Castle Rock just so happens to be the place where Chris Sharma grew up climbing. Chris Sharma was born on April 23, 1981 in Santa Cruz, CA and is considered along with Adam Ondra to be the best climber in the world. In the documentary, Dosage, a young Chris Sharma (20 yrs. old) is interviewed during his first ascent of the climb Realization. At the time, it was the only 5.15 rated climb in the world.
Watching Sharma climb and listening to him talk, I realized that there is much more to great climbing than just strength. Three things need to be present: Strength, Technique, and Mental Prowess.
Realization: First Ascent by Chris Sharma
The Phsyical Strength:
For those who are not familiar with ratings, a 5 is given to anything that is considered too difficult to be a hike. A 5.0 is the lowest rating for a climb. The ratings are numerial from 5.0 - 5.9, at which point alpha-numerical ratings are used. For example: 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, 5.11b, and so forth. A rating of 5.15a is astronomical in difficulty. It is clear that Chris Sharma is a physical beast.
The Art of Technique:
This is an important and often times overlooked quality; partly because the average climber can get by with poor technique. However, in order to progress to the more difficult climbs, good technique is essential. Technique really is an art, and it changes as one progresses in their climbing career.
The Mental Game:
As I listened to Chris Sharma talking, I realized that not only is he the strongest climber in the world, but that his mental game is unrivaled. When talking about the climb, he says the following:
"......and everything has to come together perfectly for me to do this route. I have to be feeling strong, but not too confident. I have to have the desire to do it[the climb], but not be too attached to getting to the top as much as enjoying the climbing; and it has to be a good day. I have to hit everything right, and then it will happen.....I think the best attitude for me to have[on the climb] is just, when it's the right time, I'll do it. And everyother time that I don't do it, it just wasn't the right time. You know, it wasn't meant to be. When it's the right time to do it, I'll do it."
Interestingly, Chris Sharma once was quoted as saying, "climbing is mostly mental," when asked about what makes him a good climber.
I look at everything that makes Chris Sharma a complete climber; I see that he climbs with not only his physical strength, but also his mind, and his heart. He gives everything that he has into his climbing, because that is what is required in order to be the best. He just so happens to do it better than everyone else.
That's how I want to live my life. God commands us to love Him with all of our heart, all of our soul, all of our strength, and with all of our mind (Luke 10:27). We must do this, because this is what is required; thank God that in Jesus, we will be victorious.
-ServantME